Peaks of the Balkans
Montenegro
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Kosovo
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Albania
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Montenegro 〰️ Kosovo 〰️ Albania 〰️
Why I walk the peaks
For every summer of my life, I’ve returned back to Kosovo and the region around it. These holidays always existed out of visiting my family, going to restaurants, or laying at the beach for hours on end. But every time I came back to my hometown (a little village just outside of Peja) I would look upon a mountain towering behind my house. This is the beginning of the beautiful Rugova Valley. I knew it because we would drive up there, primarily to visit restaurants. I remember marveling at the overwhelming sizes and shapes, but never would we go in by foot to explore the unpaved land.
Last summer I changed that. I wanted to explore the Balkans in a new and unusual manner. I wanted to see the real beauty of my country, the nature, the food, the people. I wanted to go all the way in. So instead of driving, as usual, from home to a viewpoint and back, I trekked for nine days through the Accursed Mountain range of Kosovo, Montenegro, and Albania.
Peaks of the what?
The Balkans! Oh, the Balkans… -sigh- Where do I begin? While some have never heard of it, others know it vaguely as that war-drenched region in Eastern Europe. This bloody history involves, time and again, the fight over land (what’s new?).
There are two main events that have had a profound impact on the region; the war between communist Albania and Yugoslavia, and the downfall of Former Yugoslavia by the come-up of ethnic Nationalities. These events have shaped the Balkans in the tricky puzzle of young and rather unknown nations, such as Montenegro, Macedonia and Kosovo. Books about this history can fill entire libraries, but I have another story, more joyous story I want to tell.
Balkan’s lay puzzle after the downfall of Yugoslavia. (Credit: Meda01/Shutterstock)
Apart from the perspectives of the uninformed tourist or the geopolitical historian, there is a third viewpoint worth considering when it comes to the Balkans: that of the traveler. Given the region's tumultuous past and ongoing conflicts, it may be difficult to envision it as an ideal destination for travelers. However, those who carry the Lonely Planet guidebook are onto something here.
The Balkans is an authentic and unique travel destination in Europe that provides something for everyone.
The Eastern European region boasts a coastline stretching from Croatia to Albania, as well as outstanding traditional cuisine that is both delicious and affordable, and hospitable locals. However, in my opinion, the highlight of the region is its mountains! In contrast to the more popular Central European Alps (France, Switzerland, Italy), this region is less-traveled by tourists, making it more authentic and giving adventurous travelers the opportunity to experience raw nature.
The origins of the POB
The Peaks of the Balkans is a hiking trail that spans across the Western Balkans. The pathways were originally established by shepherds and soldiers in an effort to connect isolated mountainous regions. During the Cold War, these ancient routes were disrupted due to high tensions between Yugoslavia and Albania. In the aftermath of the war, the German Development Agency (GDA) sought to support local communities, resulting in the creation of the Peaks of the Balkans trail. The BBC has even hailed it as Europe's last true wilderness.
Beyond its beauty, this trail has breathed new life into abandoned and traumatized villages by attracting a steady flow of tourists, providing these communities with a much-needed lifeline as they teetered on the brink of disappearing.
The Peaks of the Balkans trail is an incredible journey that promises to take hikers on a captivating journey through a diverse range of landscapes and cultural experiences. The route encompasses stunning valleys, rugged peaks, pristine rivers, and traditional villages that are steeped in history and culture. Travelers will have the chance to witness the unique blend of Slavic, Ottoman, and Mediterranean influences that are woven into the fabric of this region.
For who?
Although the trail is accessible to hikers of all levels, it requires a good physical condition due to the varying terrain and altitude. While some sections of the route may be considered relatively easy, others require moderate effort and can be quite challenging. However, the effort is undoubtedly worth it, as the trail rewards visitors with breathtaking views, and the chance to connect with nature and local communities in a way that is truly special.
The Peaks of the Balkans trail is a challenging trekking route suitable for experienced hikers and nature enthusiasts. The trail covers approximately 192 kilometers (120 miles) across three countries: Albania, Kosovo, and Montenegro, and passes through remote areas with limited access to facilities.
Accommodation on the trail varies from mountain huts and basic lodges to homestays with local families, allowing hikers to experience the culture and traditions of the region firsthand. It is recommended to book accommodations in advance, especially during the peak season, to ensure availability.
Uncovering the Unpaved Land
Preparation
In preparation for my trek on the Peaks of the Balkans trail, I made it a priority to gather as much information as possible. I scoured numerous blogs and websites, all of which highlighted this hidden gem as a must-visit destination for hikers and nature enthusiasts. However, I was frustrated to find that most of these sources recommended doing the trek with a group or a private guide, citing the difficulty of the trail and the risk of getting lost. Now, I get that for some this sounds appealing; follow the guide from point A to point B, make sure you don’t miss any highlights, and be surrounded by people (with whom you might or might not click.…) But for me it was not the adventure I was looking for.
I’ve had some scary hiking experiences in the past, so I’ve grown sensitive to the balance between bold adventurism and adventurous naivety.
Therefore, I wanted to be overly prepared rather than underprepared, especially when venturing into rural mountain regions without connectivity for days. I was determined to find a compromise between the freedom of self-guided exploration and the safety of having a plan.
Despite the warnings from friends and family in Kosovo about the risks of bears, sleeping arrangements, and food availability, I refused to let fear dictate my choices. I’ve learned on my Camino de Santiago de Compostella that I can’t let my choices be dictated by other people’s fear in life. Instead, I sought out people in the area who had the knowledge and experience to help me navigate the trail safely. This is how I discovered Balkan N’ Adventure, a travel agency based in Peja that offered a self-guided tour service. They provided a tailor-made itinerary, complete with GPS files, and took care of everything from accommodation to transportation and border crossing permits, all at a reasonable price.
Thanks to Balkan N’ Adventure, I had a clear overview of what I was going to do without the daunting task of researching the trip myself. They were professional and even provided us with hiking poles for the journey. I highly recommend their services to anyone planning a trek on the Peaks of the Balkans trail.
Going in
With the aid of Balkan N’ Adventure, my girlfriend and I embarked on a 9-day trek through the Balkans. We followed the POB trail with a few minor adjustments to make it our own. We left out some parts of the trail, and replaced them by added an extra day hike through the breathtaking Gerbaja Valley. This was incredibly easy to organise and was so worth it!
We kicked off our expedition in Kosovo, right on the border with Montenegro. The green forests and glacial lakes of Montenegro were stunning. Our first stop was the rustic village of Babino Polje, where we rested in a cozy little hut beside a soothing river. We were welcomed by a friendly locals who didn’t speak English or Albanian.
Our trek continued to Hridsko Lake, where we plunged into the refreshing waters for a long break. We made up for lost time by catching a ride to Plav and treated ourselves to a well-deserved homemade dinner while gazing at the iconic lake.
The following day, we woke up late but lucked out by finding a driver to take us to the mountain's foot. We were relieved to be back among the trees and faced a challenging ascent with ominous clouds gathering in the distance. At the summit, we were pelted with hail, forcing us to sprint for cover beneath a nearby tree. We emerged damp and bruised, but the breathtaking view from the mountaintop left us in awe.
Our next stop was Vusanje, our favorite destination of the trek.
Tucked away in a valley deep in the mountains, the village welcomed us like family.
We had a chalet all to ourselves, and our host prepared a fresh meal just for us. It felt like coming home in someone else’s house.
From Vusanje, we embarked on a day trip to the Taljanka peak. At the summit, we gazed at the dramatic bare rock mountains of Albania, which excited us more than any description ever could.
As we looped back towards Kosovo, we entered the north of Albania in Theth. The landscapes were breathtaking, but the tourism industry had transformed the area. It was no longer a quaint spot to relax, but rather a hive of tourist activity with large-scale accommodation and dining options. We avoided the crowds by leaving later in the morning and indulged in the stunning nature without the interruption of other hikers.
Our journey continued through Valbona valley, where we trekked in the rain without pause. We arrived at Cerem exhausted from the repeated morning climbs and afternoon descents. Hitchhiking with a group of labourers, we were invited to have some rakia (locally brewed alcohol) for breakfast. We accepted, which proved to be a questionable idea.
Our last stop before returning home was the remote shepherds village of Doberdol. It was old and a bit shabby, but the food was divine. We slept in a single sleeping bag and met fascinating people, which made it all worthwhile.
The final leg of our trek was the Gjeravica peak, Kosovo’s highest point. We passed a heart-shaped lake, breathtaking passes, and summited the Gjeravica peak. The view was remarkable, but our pictures tell the story best.
Coming out
Walking the Peaks of the Balkans trail brought me back to so many things that I love. Meeting locals helped me understand the history of my people better. I got to see how they lived in other places, and become part of it. Speaking Albanian -the language I grew up with, but never quite mastered- was like an old friend, comforting and empowering me.
The landscapes of Kosovo were an invitation to keep exploring, to keep seeking hidden wonders. It was a new dimension of my home country, a place I thought I knew so well. I relished every moment of it, but I am under no illusion that the influx of mass tourism will soon change the scenery. Nevertheless, the POB-trail will undoubtedly become a household name when it comes to epic treks in Europe.
Don't miss your shot to experience it!
Blog out,
Durim
Chambéry, 31/03/23
